
After getting the French fundamentals right—gougères and crème brûlée make requisite appearances—Greenspan explores the French flavor pantheon, incorporating African, Vietnamese, Spanish, and Middle Eastern influences. She describes each recipe as if it were gastronomically predestined: on a mozzarella, tomato, and strawberry salad, "As ripe and sweet as they should be, the fruits should retain some of their characteristic acidity. If they're ripe and right, then you won't need even a micro splash of vinegar on the salad." She respects her ingredients, but she’s also got a healthy dose of whimsy--any chef who serves smoked salmon blini on tiny waffles gets extra points from me.
Even if this is French, this isn't the France of Julia Child: Greenspan doesn’t overdo it on the butter and cream. Nevertheless, the food always feels indulgent; after her mustard tart, chicken tagine with sweet potatoes and prunes, endives with apples and grapes, and her “pumpkin stuffed with everything good” (everything good = bread, Gruyère, garlic, bacon, and scallions), you’re not even a little bit deprived. When it comes from Dorie Greenspan, every dish turns out to be a glorious mouthful.
Buy it here: Amazon • Barnes & Noble • Borders • IndieBound • Houghton Mifflin Harcourt